The Spekko France Trip
In the Kitchen With Two Top French Chefs (DAY 4)
Day 4 for the Spekko Rice Kokkedoor winners was steeped in taste sensations; shopping experiences; a spiritual moment or two and then a steamy introduction to the kitchens of a Michelin starred French restaurant.
Bourges is a city on the Santiago de Compo Stella route and the cathedral of Saint Etienne is a stop for both pilgrims and tourist alike. One could light a candle for a loved one or leave a flower to a saint.
The old town is home to quaint and unique food and kitchen shops such as La Bovida where one can purchase copper jam basins, “canale” moulds and knives any chef would kill for.
Down the street is the Comtesse du Barry delicatessen where choice truffles, house pates and flavoured oils can be acquired.
The whirlwind of activities started with a private session in the Monin showcase kitchens in Bourges. Monin manufactures fruit and other syrups which are used in both cocktail recipes, as well as to enhance dishes. The Monin factory in Brouges also houses a research and development laboratory and a private test kitchen where Chef Thierry Finet develops food pairings.
Two top mixologists presented bubblegum flavoured cocktails with candy floss toppings; Bloody Mary cocktails with fresh tomato, lime and basil syrup and macaroon flavoured milkshakes. Berry cocktails are topped with a crushed ice basket with fresh berries.
As Chef Thierry says, one first eat with one’s eyes, then feel the temperature of the glass or cup or plate, then the nose, finally the taste and flavour combinations.
After cocktails a wine paired salad Capers with copper and the region’s blood red and garden-fresh tomatoes was served.
It was late afternoon when Chef Christophe and Chef Pascal welcomed the winners to the Le Circle hot and cold kitchens. The restaurant and hotel are run by only 4 permanent staff. The purchase, preparation, cooking plating and cleaning is done by the two chefs. They also have a patisserie chef and a sommelier who chooses the wines, orders and lays the stemware.
Service is done by a professional waitron who comes in by the hour and front of house is managed by the wife of one of the chefs.
On the menu:
- A sauté Girolle of mushrooms, a mushroom cappuccino and with egg two ways. The flavours – apricot, a reduced stock and tomatoes.
- The main course was a French cut sirloin of Limousine beef – reared and sold by the famer/ butcher who supplies the restaurant. The accompaniment – coconut flavoured puree of aubergine, duck-fat fried onions and a Thai spiced based dressing.
And oh yes, the appetisers included smoked aubergine topped by an intense beef jelly with cream and olive caviar and tomato salad on the spoon.
The lesson of the day – not a scrap in a French kitchen goes to waste. There are stockpots bubbling on the stove in which everything goes; the eggshells are used to clarify bouillons and the meat offcuts and bones are braised and used in jellied dishes.
And so to bed – satisfied, happy and sleepy – awaiting day 5 of the trip.